Ocean Wave Characteristics

OPENING QUESTION:

Sketch an ocean wave

Now please Label all the words o' the day on that sketch (best as you can!)

LEARNING TARGET: I will be able to name characteristics common to water waves during today's class.

I will be able to describe how ocean waves are created during today's class.

WORDS O' THE DAY:

  • frequency (waves/second or waves/minute)
  • period ("seconds/wave or minutes/wave")
  • amplitude (wave height)
  • wavelength (distance from crest to crest)
  • crest (the highest point of the wave)
  • trough (the lowest point of the wave)
  • speed (measured in meters/sec or miles per hour)

FORMULAE OBJECTUS:

wave speed = (frequency)(wavelength)

For example: (meters/wave) x (waves/sec) = meters/sec

WORK O' THE DAY:

We'll be sketching waves quite a bit today!

Please! Please! Please! note you should draw your ocean/water waves like a sine wave:

YES YES asdfasf YES YES

NOT like our wonderful Tides logo:

No No No NoasdfasdfasfdNo No No

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Please grab a sheet of paper

Now please fold the paper into four sections (doesn't matter how) and draw a series of ocean waves in the first panel that match the following specifications.

Colored pencils/crayons/pastels etc... ARE ENCOURAGED

Panel #1

  • 6 wave crests and 6 troughs
  • The time between wave crests (period? frequency?) should be 30 seconds (or .50 minutes, up to you)
  • Each trough/crest should have an amplitude of 2.0 meters
  • The distance between wave crests (wavelength) should be 5.0 meters
  • Calculate the speed of that wave

Physics sometimes work with breaking waves in which they do look like the sort of wave you might surf or bodysurf (if you've done that sort of thing).

However, in this class we will (mostly) concern ourselves with the behavior of waves in the open ocean when they look like bumps and valleys, NOT breaking waves.

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Panel #2

In the second panel.... please sketch another set of ocean waves with EXACTLY the same characteristics as above... except you need to DOUBLE the amplitude.

How does that change the frequency?

How does that change the period?

How does that change the wavelength?

How does that change the speed?

Please provide a coherent, well crafted one paragraph response somewhere in panel #2

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Panel #3

Now please sketch a set of ocean waves with EXACTLY the same characteristics as above... except you need to cut the frequency in half.

How is the amplitude changed?

How is the period changed?

How is the wavelength effected?

Does the speed change?

Why or why not?

Please provide a coherent, well crafted one paragraph response somewhere in panel #3

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Panel #4

Now please sketch a set of ocean waves with EXACTLY the same characteristics as above... except you need to DOUBLE the PERIOD.

How is the amplitude changed?

How is the frequency changed?

How is the wavelength effected?

Does the speed change?

Why or why not?

Please provide a coherent, well crafted one paragraph response somewhere in panel #4

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Now let's take a quick tour of other group's posters... find the same color designation as yourself, did they do what you did? How are they similar? How are they different? Who's work is more accurate?

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Now let's check out this AMAZING video

What is the primary cause of ocean waves?

 

 

 

 

 

 

W I N D

What makes ocean waves particularly LARGE?

STRONG W I N D

 

BLOWING FOR A LONG TIME

 

OVER A LARGE AREA

 

Think "The 3 Bigs":

BIG WIND

BIG TIME

BIG AREA

Let's take a quick trip to the southern latitudes... "Around the Horn..."

And see THIS

At those latitudes, the winds race around the world barely checked by land. In the early days (16th, 17th centuries) of exploration, going 'around the horn' was much feared.